Completed 14-17AUG. The trail stayed high up on the canyon side, so I couldnt easily get down to the water to soak my head. Scale: 1:47,520 or inch representing 3/4 mile. This trek met every expectation I had plus some! Glaciers clung to the northern slopes of the mountains, feeding small waterfalls. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. A switchback climb below the Piute Crags, followed by traverse leads to Loch Leven. The ferry was not running this early in the season. At night, Id comb through maps by headlamp, creating my ultimate ticklist for the parks. When we came out at north lake we hitched a ride back to south lake (thank you!!). I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet Rattlesnakes are always possible; but with the popularity of the trail, rattlesnakes are rarely seen. We slept in our vehicle at the trailhead the night before starting. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. One bite of the Evolution area is The SteriPen uses UV light to kill the germs. Only a portion of our journey would actually be in Evolution, but the areas we passed through to reach and retreat from our intended destination were just as amazing. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. We started at south lake and ended on north lake, backwards from most, and while Piute pass was a hard hike, i think ending on Piute and Humphrey's Basin was a great way to complete the trip. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. I got out the map and came up with a plan, but it wasnt perfect. Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). This was an absolute must do trail! Grand views of the high sierra. The trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass. I had descended 2500 feet and climbed another 1000 feet to get up here. Mosquitos are out a bit especially in Evolution Valley and Piute Creek. The trail skirts the northern shore of Loch Leven. We took four full, plus two half days, to hike the 57-mile route starting at South Lake and ending at North Lake, so 10-12 miles each day was the score. North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow is very straightforward. I decided to stop for lunch a short ways ahead, and hung out in the shade next to the water with a couple of PCT hikers that Id spoken to earlier. I was lucky because I could follow fresh prints here and I'm lighter than most other hikers, but I still postholed A LOT. The mosquitoes were intense in certain areas. It was a smooth and quick process. We offer this guided journey in three itineraries: 3-day Ultralight 4-day Backpacking (July 23-26, 2022) 5-day Backpacking (July 16-20, 2022) Thousands upon thousands of happy people enjoying the wilderness. There were hikers with quick-drying shoes that just walked right in, but most of us had a chance to talk as we dried our feet. contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 Monday, they crossed 11,500-foot Piute Pass. We had heard that you could maybe get an employee of Parcher's Resort to give you a lift to the North Lake Trailhead -- they are located a mile down the road from the South Lake Trailhead. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. I didnt pay a whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and even fewer photos. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. Those first four and last four miles are always the hottest. I hung out by the creek for an hour and a half, until 3pm. It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. 110 Piute Pass Trail junction, 17 mi. Having driven by this part of the Sierras countless times on Hwy 395, gazing at that saw-toothed range, I always wanted to be the Norman Clyde, the John Muir, the Clarence King who had the privilege of a first ascent or true solitary immersion. I think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem. Every effort is made to provide accurate and up to date information, but we cannot be responsible This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. FIND YOUR WAY OUTSIDE is a trademark of AllTrails, LLC. We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. Campsites: Good sites along Evolution Creek by Evolution Meadow, McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow. Pick up permit, eat at Burger Barn, head to, Day One Piute Pass trailhead over Piute Pass down through Humphreys Basin to, Day Two Hutchinson Meadow down Piute Creek to the JMT junction down along the San Joaquin River to the, Day Three Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction Up to Evolution Valley then into Evolution Basin and camp at, Day Four Sapphire Lake up to Wanda Lake then summit Muir Pass then down into Le Conte Canyon and camp at, Day Six Up over Bishop Pass and down to South Lake . For lunch we had tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). The Tyee Lakes part was not the most beautiful part and was pretty strenuous, but made transportation much easier. . Wished we could have camped at Evolution Lake as it's sooooo beautiful but it didn't work out for us. Ouch! At Piute Pass, we headed off trail toward Muriel Lake, then Alpine Col, which takes the hiker to the gorgeous Darwin Lakes and Darwin Bench area. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Then continue up the valley to McClure Meadow. No rain. It was a big boulder located down along the river bank, and had been engraved by the original builders of this section of trail back in 1917, over 100 years ago! Soon the trail crossed Evolution Creek, which was quite large at this point. Driving times may vary based on conditions. Of course, the unforgettable moments started to pile up as we descended into Evolution Basin and then officially into the hanging valley of Evolution. The creek crossing there can be challenging early in the season. I did, however, make one mistake: I didnt stop to get extra water when the trail was alongside the creek. The trail starts at North Lake (9,276'), soon enters the John Muir Wilderness, and ascends to Piute Pass (11,423') in four steep miles. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that may have been made. Now I cant breathe for another reason. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. A great spot! I found a spot right next to the creek in the shade of a small grove of trees. Day five Leave the JMT, taking the switchbacks above Evolution Lake to access Darwin Canyon and a class 2 scramble up and over Lamarck Col to Upper Lamarck Lake, 2,100-feet below. In the Spring of a snowy year it must be incredible. Me either, until we exited the forest at about 11,000 feet and monster granite views appeared. Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. This was a beautiful scenic area with decent camping and a gorgeous small lake (Loch Leven). On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! Meanwhile, I got to hang out along the river and watch some crazy young PCT hikers swimming in Piute Creek. The log cabin is located on the right side of the trail as you hike south a short distance before the Piute Creek bridge. Recommend to everybody. We put in about 11.5 miles but it was almost all downhill or level deep-forest hiking. I'll be going back next weekend into the Evolution Basin higher up. You can learn more about her travels with her husband, Mitch, on CruisingSailors.com. Camp at Wanda! On day 4 we headed east along Piute Canyon toward lovely Humphreys Basin, a timeless spot overlooking the Glacier Divide to which we have returned again and again. It is a hard one but worth it. Then back to camp and packed up everything continuing on JMT . That was a big mistake. In other words, I was probably dehydrated. This loop begins and ends at the North Lake trailhead. Id have the trail to myself for a while. Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. Entire trip is so memorizable, it has everything: lakes, forest, canyons, rivers, waterfalls and alpine meadows. Did this hike in end of June 2020 but it was one of my favorites to date so want to leave a review. Jessie Wheeler. Oh, yes, this was heavenly! But the Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again. Read more + In fact on the trail coming up to Piute pass from the JMT, there was no water source near the trail for nearly 7mi because the stream beds are dry. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. Just needed a puffy jacket, could skip the fleece. But you could put together a much more worthwhile tour with more like 7 days. Hi, Jeff; Thank you for your compliment of my photo. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Building anything out here must be quite the challenge. I continued down through the forest, not far from the creek, until I neared the northern end of Evolution Valley. Evolution Creek had already joined forces and the river was much larger. Day 3: Today was another up and over day. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. The Evolution Loop $555 per person BOOK 3-DAY BOOK NOW The most scenic and classic backpacking loop in the High Sierra, the Evolution Loop is one breathtaking vista after another. Oh well. Wheres there a low altitude pass that brings me out East of the Darwin Glacier? For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. The best sites we found are located on the east side of the trail directly after we crossed the stream that feeds the lake. Beautiful trip! Started at North Lake Trailhead and ended at South Lake. But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. A mother deer plus two babies. They are past the Muir Trail Ranch. Trailhead: Florence Lake, 84 miles east of Fresno, elevation 7,300 feet Those who use the SteriPen, or any other filter system, are wise to carry a backup such as Potable Aqua Water Treatment Tablets. Do I really get to be here? Create a personalized feed and bookmark your favorites. I finally had a chance to use the water shoes Id been carrying! "Ridicule is the tribute that mediocrity pays to genius. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time . And the very first waterfall wasnt even listed on my map: It was on a small creek that flowed down into the valley from Darwin Bench. Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. Now, an 81-year old. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. Well, yeah, maybe then. Day 4: Today turned out to be a truly cushy one. Your email address will not be published. We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. The water was seriously cascading as it made its way over the steep edge of the valley, flowing downward into the South Fork San Joaquin River Valley, which I could see off the edge of space to the north. There was a traditional wide and shallow ford. Evolution Basin. The next morning we discovered more good sites at the west end of the lake. The next morning, we hiked through the remainder of Evolution Valley to gorgeous Colby Meadow, up several switchbacks to Evolution Lake and eventually staying at Sapphire Lake. After descending into the valley, I noticed how hot it was. And it felt like it. Amazing. Then I hiked north, paralleling the water. The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. One time, we found beers in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one'. The North Lake-South Lake loop is the famous "Rainbow Trail" and includes spectacular scenery visiting such areas as Dusy basin, Le Conte Canyon, Muir Pass, Evolution valley, and Humphrey's Basin. Then it is violently opposed. I was definitely overheating, and simply wanted to take a long rest. Here the trail climbs 700 feet of switchbacks to It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. A number of camp sites here. Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. 7/19/2014 - 17.03 miles, 2,992 AEG - Piute Bridge to Evolution Creek The day started with a six mile roundtrip hike to Muir Trail Ranch to obtain our resupply. This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. Mather Pass . Save 4 miles of hiking by riding the Florence Lake Ferry. And it was! Did it South Lake to North Lake so the slog at Muir Pass was real and all trails GPS offline helped me navigate through snow/now visible trail, Did it in equiv of 4 days. I didnt see anyone moving this time. Ooops! Darwin/Bench. Lets take a short geography break so I can explain what a hanging valley is: A hanging valley is formed from a side valley, which has a floor at a higher elevation than the main valley floor into which it flows. Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. What a sight! Slept like a drunken sailor. Setup camp and to our delight very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet. A boat-taxi across the lake is available from the trailhead in the summer. Do you wish to share an stories about that particular spot? this trail is definitly one of the top 5 trails in sierras. My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. my 21-year-old daughter. Very scenic. Piute Creek to Evolution Creek, 3.5 miles Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. That was the new plan, I decided. Following the PCT southward another 4 miles will bring you to Evolution Meadow. The ferry is worth it if its running. . I thought that an off-trail entry via Lamarck Col would be a more "interesting" approach, and I had never been down through Darwin Canyon before. It meanders, cascades, pools and performs every ballet that water is capable of in the wilderness, yet I would still describe this area as desolate. I used my water like always. Piute Pass. I woke up before dawn, as usual. The ferry was not running yet. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. Once we reached the pass at 11,955 feet, we were gifted with the sight of Muir Hut constructed in 1930 by the Sierra Club, with the intention of sheltering hikers that may find themselves caught in unsavory weather. My understanding is that dogs are not allowed in the Kings Canyon National Park. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. These Photos Prove It. Many thanks to her for this great post and pictures! The map shown above is for illustrative purposes only. Before last pass go to side trail golden trout lake to spend a night. Its not an extremely hard hike; most of it is pretty gradual and flat in the meadows, but there are two sections of switchbacks: heading up into evolution valley and heading up to evolution lake, but they werent too bad. Day 2 Evolution Valley 17.18 2977 AEG Emptied our packs and hiked down to the Muir Trail Ranch to pick our resupply. First it is ridiculed. We started at 8,200 feet and camped at 11,200 feet. A couple of our groups tents were frozen stiff with ice crystals upon them waking up. The next morning, we continued on the Piute Trail and crossed the bridge onto the John Muir Trail (JMT) where we were paralleling a fast-moving San Joaquin River located within the Kings Canyon National Park. Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. Tom Harrison Bishop Pass North Lake South Lake Loop map, Day One: Piute Pass Trailhead to Hutchinson Meadow, https://www.google.com/maps/dir/37.1690269,-118.5659703/Parchers+Resort/@37.1821746,-118.5605844,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x80be22599824d057:0x2d65d233d333ba3!2m2!1d-118.558043!2d37.18528!3e0?hl=en, https://www.google.com/maps/dir/37.2214526,-118.6047098/North+Lake+Hiker+Parking/@37.2218114,-118.6169192,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x80be212c5ba6930b:0x4fdb45ddf9fd610a!2m2!1d-118.6186999!2d37.2306136!3e0?hl=en, Overview of the North Lake/South Lake Loop, DAY 1 Piute Pass TH to Hutchinson Meadow, DAY 4 Sapphire Lake toLittle Pete Meadow, DAY 5 Little Pete Mdw to UpperDusy Basin, Hiking Belknap Crater in the Mountain Washington Wilderness, Hiking to the Simpson Reef Overlook on the Oregon Coast Trail, Join Team SoCalHiker at the Climb for Heroes, Hiking the Welch-Dickey Loop in the White Mountain National Forest, Hiking Turtlehead Peak from Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, How to deal with accidents while hiking in the winter. Part of the trail down to the junction of the John Muir trail needs improvement. The 56-chromosome karyotype associated with P. i. neglectus is generally larger than P. i. inornatus and has been identified from the western side of the San Joaquin Valley and the Carrizo Plain (Patton and Rogers 1993). On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). Turn left and cross the South Fork San Joaquin River. Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. Beautiful and challenging in a good way. Our payback day ended up being 13 miles, almost all uphill. Did this a decade ago and want to do it again! beautiful. My sincere thanks to the fire fairies who set this up for us. I went down to the water and splashed some on my head. Hours may vary with the seasons, so check out their website or call (760) 873-2500. They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. Usually we did it in 7 days. Would recommend to anyone wanting to experience the High Sierras. Beyond Muir Trail Ranch, several lateral trails connect to the John Muir Trail. My AllTrails recording showed 59.4 miles at the termination point (South Lake overnight parking lot) with over 10,000' elevation gain. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). Follow it 2.1 miles back to the trailhead. We hiked this trail June 5th to the 7th. Oh ya, chill and take your time. Get surefire solitude in McGee Canyon (south about .5 mile back). Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. At first the canyon was narrow, and the river had created deep channels to flow through. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. The Sierra Peaks Section was established in 1955. 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